Recent Developments in Coffee Processing
PART 2 | Anaerobic Modulated Coffee Trend:
Impact on the cup, on the livelihoods of the farmers, and on the future of coffee …
In the first part, we zoomed in on the different modulations of post-harvest processing, and explained why these different modulations play a key role in flavour diversity.
In this second part, we discuss how the post-harvest ‘anaerobic modulation’ impacts the cup profile and the livelihood of the farmers who grow the coffee. And finally, we look at the challenges that these new techniques have in store for the future of (specialty) coffee industry…
FACTS & OBSERVATIONS | FROM THE OUTSIDE
The interest in innovative post-harvest processing styles/modulations is growing throughout the coffee supply chain. Producers, roasters and consumers see and recognise benefits such as:
>> diversifying offerings.
ANAEROBIC MODULATED COFFEES | IMPACT ON THE CUP
More intense and more specific, but not always adding more complexity to the cup profile
>> In recent years, our quality lab has recorded a remarkable increase and continuity of coffee samples that were labeled as anaerobic. These specifically modulated coffees are perceived as more intense, and more typical descriptors are being used.
The anaerobic modulation increases the intensity of certain flavours and influence the profile and experience of the cup. More specific flavours can be distinguished, such as hints of dried fruit or tones of fresh fruit.
>> Although the anaerobic coffees types may have the most intensity, they may not always contribute to the complexity of the cup.
Anaerobic processing modulations | a common profile ?
Anaerobic processing expresses an increased presence of carboxylic acids like lactic acids (cheesy) and acetic acid (winey).
Those acids are creating a sort of ‘common flavour’ in the coffee that we could find in a lot of different origins and varieties.
The specialty market tends to perceive the presence and repercussions of these (lactic) acids as positive, while in the conventional coffee market they are more easily regarded as defective/fermented.
Primary common profile: intense, fruit forward, clove, sweet
When it comes to coffees that exhibit anaerobic profiles, in most cases these coffees are distinguished from others by a truly increased presence of carboxylic acids. It’s these acids that divide opinions about anaerobic modulated coffee. Some people like it because it’s intense, wild and interesting, and other people will consider it as too ‘fermented’. You love it, or you hate it.
This first profile is very intense and immediately recognisable; You can open a roasted coffee bag or a tin and you can immediately smell and tell what you are about to taste, just from the aromas that come from the whole bean. Pretty obvious and right away it’s intense, it’s boozy, it’s fruity and it’s often very floral.
>> This primary highly identifiable profile occurs in every origin and across processes.
Second common profile: winey, spicy, almond, brandy (amaretto)-like
Instead of being fruit forward, this primary flavour can be described as nutty, pecan-like, praline, brandy. The cinnamon (adjunct) profile has a similar vibe to this.
>> This second highly identifiable profile occurs in every origin and across processes.
Mild profile: mild versions of the fruit forward of winey spicy profiles
Some anaerobics don’t show any novel traits; they even don’t show any obvious anaerobic trait. But they amplify their underlying process and are more intense washed, honey or natural coffees. Thet taste like mild versions of the intense fruit forward of winey spice profiles (see above)
>> These occurs in every origin and hint to the underlying process.
What about Terroir ?
Some anaerobics show a subtle enhancement of features characteristic of type and origin.
Anaerobic modulation can also sometimes show a subtle improvement in coffee terroir characteristics, such as added depth of blueberry flavour for Ethiopia or blackberry for Kenya.
!!! As explained before, it can also give the coffee a ‘common profile’, risking losing the terroir and origin.
>> If the modulation is well controlled and not too intense, it can certainly sublimate the terroir and coffee flavours.
>> But if we go too far in the modulation, it can easily lead to a common category as described above, and in that case we can lose what the terroir has to offer us.
NEW POST-HARVESTING PROCESSES & TECHNIQUES | IMPACT ON THE LIVELIHOODS IN ORIGIN
As a specialty coffee connector, Cuprima is responsible for navigating such a trends, acknowledging the interest and demand from the roasters, while keeping the producers’ interest in mind.
How much value is added per investment of time, equipment? Not every technique is suitable for every producer, some techniques just won’t work for certain producers. We have to make sure we keep a proper understanding, an oversight in order not to endanger the livelihoods of the farmers in origin or to damage the coffee offerings/crops. Let’s zoom in on some of the challenges:
IS THERE A ROI FOR PRODUCERS ?
The price of modulated coffee is relatively high compared to coffee that undergoes the usual process, -which is quite interesting for the producers. Usually the investment is worth it and the results are very good. We have been able to find exceptional modulated coffees with a “ROI” for producers. But sometimes producers invest a lot of money in new equipment for specific post-harvest/anaerobic processes, and we don’t even know if they can continue to use this in the future or if this is just a passing trend? Special modulation also requires more control and the coffee is more sensitive to defects. Does it make sense to invest time and more manpower in this?
Another issue is that if the coffee does not meet the demand on the specialty market, it will be much more complicated to sell on the conventional market.
When traditional crops or natural coffee do not reach the specialty market due to lower quality, the producer will be able to sell it on the conventional and/or local market. But that is not an option for modulated coffee; the conventional market is not an asking party….
CAN PRODUCERS BUILD A LIFE & INCOME FROM ONLY THESE SPECIAL POST HARVEST MODULATED TYPE OF COFFEES ?
In our opinion, farmers/producers should not only focus or bet on specially modulated coffee. Not only is it time-consuming and money-intensive, there is also a risk that a crop will be damaged. Anaerobic processes require a lot of control, stable temperature, special equipment and a stable environment. If producers decide to produce only anaerobic coffees and something goes wrong -such as bacteria or an unexpected high temperature- they could lose their entire crop. The ‘all eggs in one basket approach’ is too risky and therefore not sustainable for their income.
A lot is invested e.g. in creating anaerobic environments with specialised equipment. Investments are made in research, manpower, labor,… in order to assess what is happening in the tanks, to understand what is going on with the coffee during fermentation, how the different flavour results are created. Cool, because research & development are always key to innovation. But we have to be careful with trends and hot topics and fads; these hypes are not necessarily sustainable in the long term.
INNOVATIVE MODULATED COFFEES | IMPACT ON THE (SPECIALTY) COFFEE INDUSTRY : CHALLENGES & CONCERNS
These new modulations make it possible to better understand the chemical reactions associated with certain modulation techniques. It is certainly an evolution for the producer and it offers a new vision on coffee processing in general. But there is the imminent risk that these special modulations will completely dominate the cup profile and will lead to one ‘standard’ standard flavour – where the original terroir is compromised and will no longer be reflected in the cup profile…
We could observe that the amount of modulation coffee specialties has really increased in the recent years. But on the contrary, the overall quality decreases.
Does this mean the end of a trend, and do Q graders today award fewer points to this type of coffee compared to a few years ago, when it was perceived as a real innovation?
HOW TO ASSES THESE COFFEES ? ARE THE Q-GRADERS IN THE INDUSTRY QUALIFIED ?
First of all, we should point out that Q-graders are not trained or qualified to evaluate modulated coffee; this is not part of the SCA Q-grader course. Q-graders will therefore have to be careful not to fall into a ‘common quote’ based on a ‘common profile’. Modulations could hide some flaws and even more care and caution will have to be taken with over-fermented coffee …. How far can fermentation go before it is considered over-fermented? This is a new topic with new challenges for previously traditionally trained Q-graders….
HOW TO ASSES THE CORRECT PRICE ?
The price of modulated coffee is relatively high compared to coffees that undergo the usual process, due to several factors: material and time investments by the producer, the atypical profile and originality, the high demand on the market for special items,…
But are all those factors actually still connected to quality? Usually with coffee specialties: yes. But we should definitely be careful with overrated coffee and pay not only for the modulation, but also for the quality.
CAN THESE NEW MODULATION TECHNIQUES AND RESULTING INSIGHTS POSITIVELY CONTRIBUTE TOWARDS THE FUTURE OF COFFEE ?
This newer, non-classical way of working increasingly and more clearly maps the chemical reactions associated with certain modulation types.
This knowledge certainly provides insights for the producer in question and for coffee processing 2.0 in general.
Let’s hope that these scientific trials and innovations can help some producers to anticipate or respond more quickly to external factors, such as impending climate change…
>> At Cuprima we certainly like anaerobic or modulated coffee types. For the cup, for the work done on the field, for what it means as a new opportunity for producers and for the environment. But at the same time we also try to understand and see what the challenges are for the sector and how we can question and adapt our sourcing strategy.
>> At Cuprima we closely follow trends and the market. This way we can offer the best product and respect and honour the work and efforts of our producers in origin. Being a green specialty coffee connector, it is also our role to anticipate trend changes and adapt in close collaboration with our producers.
