WHERE DOES THE TASTE OF COFFEE COME FROM?
The taste of a cup of coffee that we all love and cherish has a very complex origin, as it is influenced by many different parameters.
One of these is the DNA or the inherent genetic identity of the coffee tree where the coffee comes from.
The DNA of coffee contains an organoleptic potential that is brought to life by other parameters such as
where and how the coffee is grown, how the coffee is processed, the art of the roaster and the brew.
WHAT ARE THOSE PARAMETERS?
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Genetic Conditions
As mentioned previously, when we talk about the botany, the variety is situated at a lower level than the species. A species is divided into different varieties, just as wine is divided into different grape varieties that, depending on the terroir, it will differ on specific aromatic characteristics.
Coffee belongs to the Rubiaceae – family as well as to a botanical group with a somewhat expected name, Coffea.
Then come the coffee species : we count more than 100 but most of them are not edible. Therefore, the two best known species are those that our taste buds
can enjoy: Coffea Arabica and Coffea Canephora.
Coffea Canephora has 5 edible varieties, of which the original and most cultivated variety is Robusta, the others being Kouillou, Conilon, Gimé and Nialou.
Species – ROBUSTA
Robusta was discovered in Congo at the end of the 19th century. The species has half as many chromosomes as arabica (22 vs 44). It grows at relatively low altitudes (0 to 700 m), tolerates high temperatures (24 to 30 degrees) and is highly resistant to disease.
Robusta, given its strong resistance, is easier and therefore less expensive to produce and has always had great commercial potential. Although it is difficult to assign a particular taste to one species as it is still subdivided into many other varieties, in robusta we generally find a full flavor and bitter notes.
Species – ARABICA
Arabica coffee has a chromosomal structure twice as large as robusta (44 versus 22) and requires more care due to its more delicate growing conditions: arabica needs temperatures between 15 and 24 degrees to flower and grows at altitudes between 600 and 2400. Because of this, the weather conditions make this a more delicate strain to grow and more vulnerable to disease.
But it is also these growing conditions that cause the beans to develop complex flavours and an acidity that goes hand in hand with the height of the farms. However, the term Arabica is not synonymous with quality: if not all Pinot Noirs are equal, the same is true of Arabica coffees, whose quality will depend on criteria as multiple as variety, the nature of the environment (soil, climate, altitude, shade, etc.), the care taken in growing and harvesting, the method and quality of bean handling or storage conditions.
For example, an Arabica grown at an altitude of 700 m, mechanically harvested and poorly sorted, will never have the aromatic quality of an Arabica grown at an altitude of 1,700 meters, hand-harvested, carefully handled and sorted.
Click Here to discover the Arabica Philogeny
Variety – TYPICA
When it comes to Arabica , there are a large number of different varieties – Bourbon, Pacamara, Catuai, SL34, Catimor… – all descendants of the oldest variety of Arabica: Typica.
Typica coffee is one of the earliest and most important coffee varieties. It has been around for centuries and has produced many others. It can be identified by its size, which is about 5 meters high. It has a thin trunk with thin branches that are widely spaced due to their height.
Typica can also be recognized by its large bronze-tipped leaves and the elongated shape of the cherries. The variety grows in Central America, Jamaica, and Asia.
According to World Coffee Research, Typica is also known to be highly susceptible to pests and diseases, and to have fairly low yields. This can be a problem for many farmers who want to reduce risk in coffee production.
In terms of flavour, we profile this variant that has a clean cup with a sweet acidity and with floral, fruity and complex notes
Variety – BOURBON
Bourbon is a natural mutation of Typica, which was first found on the island of Réunion (later called Bourbon).
The yield of this variety is higher than that of the Typica and the color of the fruit varies: red, yellow and sometimes orange.
Bourbon was widely grown in the past, but in many producing countries it was replaced by varieties with higher yields.
In cup it is perceived as noticeably sweeter than Typica.
Terroir
‘Terroir’ comes from French and is most used, in English, when talking about wine. The word literally means ‘soil, dirt’; whatever you think around the soil is terroir. In coffee culture, ‘terroir’ encompasses everything around where coffee is grown. It’s not just the soil and climate; it’s the whole environment, including the people and the local knowledge.
Terroir brings out the characteristics of the given variety. But, since every terroir is different, this means that it brings out these characteristics in different ways. In other words, terroir is what makes a Colombian coffee different from a Brazilian, Ethiopian, or Indonesian. So even if you plant the same variety of coffee – say, a Villa Sarchi – at 1,400 m.a.s.l. in Costa Rica and 1,900 m.a.s.l. in Panama, they will taste different. Even though these small countries are neighbours, the higher altitude of the Panamanian coffee will lead to a cooler climate which, in turn, will most likely cause the coffee to be more acidic and sweeter.
For consumers, terroir affects how brewed coffee will taste. But for roasters and producers, it has an even greater impact. Roasters will need to choose a roast profile based not just on the beans’ potential flavours and aromas but also on their molecular composition – something that terroir can impact on. And producers will need to adjust their production and processing methods (themselves part of terroir) based on the local geography, climate, and resources.
The most important moment to acknowledge terroir is prior to planting the seeds. Knowledge about terroir will determine the plantation systems well as the varietals that will assure the best quality, cost efficiency, pest resistance and production productivity.
But terroir is not everything. Processing is more important than terroir… Processing can definitely triumph over the terroir if you know what you are really doing. This is the method by which the coffee seeds, or beans, are removed from the cherry flesh. Depending on how the coffee is picked, fermented, dried, and stored, processing may add flavours – some positive, some negative. It can improve a coffee’s quality or reduce it.
There is no such thing as bad terroir. There are more adequate varieties suited for a specific terroir.
Within specialty coffee, certain countries have better reputations than others. Costa Rica, Colombia, Ethiopia… these are all acknowledged as producers of excellent coffee. Brazil and Indonesia, however, are often associated with more affordable crops. This hints at one of the many limitations of terroir: the fact that countries like Brazil are, despite this reputation, capable of producing high-cupping coffees. Take the 2017 Cup of Excellence, in which nine natural and pulped natural coffees were scored as 90+.
Some countries may have a terroir that’s more suited to particular varieties, coffee flavours, and cup scores: that doesn’t mean it’s impossible to produce that coffee there.
Processing Conditions
Long before it becomes a coffee bean that is ready to be ground for brewing, the beans must be processed first. One very important element in the processing of coffee beans that you need to know -especially for roasters- is the postharvest processing. This step has a huge influence on the physical quality and taste of the coffee.
Different post-harvest processes will produce different coffee flavour characteristics, even though the coffee comes from the same type and variety of coffee plants and/or is grown on the same plantation!
So what happens after the fruit is picked and before it arrives in our roastery? Two techniques –natural (or dry) processing and washed (or wet) processing- turn ripe coffee cherry into green coffee that’s ready for export. Within the two techniques, endless variations give farmers the opportunity for their artistry to shine.
Washed Process – Consistent Method
Most of the coffee that almost anyone drinks is washed coffee, or coffee that’s been wet processed. It’s the more reliable of the two methods, producing coffee with higher acidity, which is just another way of saying brightness.
The basic method begins with sending the just-picked coffee cherry through a pulping machine, which removes the outer skin while leaving the pulp (also called mucilage) clinging to the seeds inside. The pulp-covered seeds are then soaked in water and periodically agitated to encourage the pulp to fall off. Fermentation follows, where the seeds sit in water for anywhere between a few hours to a couple of days, depending on the climate, equipment used, and the producer’s preference.
Following fermentation, the beans are rinsed thoroughly and then dried, either outdoors on raised beds, or in a mechanical dryer. Climate and equipment dictate how many days this final step takes.
Washed coffees are produced in almost all coffee-growing countries and make up the majority of what we purchase. There are so many different variations of the method used by different producers around the world.
Flavour characteristics: Bright clean, juicy flavours. The best washed’s are floral with complex acidity.
Natural Process – Original Method
Of the two methods, natural processing is the older technique, whereby whole coffee cherry dry intact on raised beds, patios, or mats. Once the fruit is entirely dry, it’s either stored for a period of months or hulled right away to remove the outer skin and the inner parchment. All that remains are the two seeds—known more commonly as beans.
Natural processing originated in places without reliable access to water. The technique makes sense there, where temperatures are hot and the sun is powerful. In these conditions, the drying coffee cherry have little chance to mildew.
When processed well, natural coffees articulate fruited flavours rarely experienced in washed coffees. In a very real way, the beans absorb essences of the fruit’s drying flesh. That’s why natural coffees exhibit a wide range of vivid fruited and sometimes wine-like notes, along with greater body and less acidity.
Natural coffees are exciting, because they have the potential to show off a region’s terroir in a unique way—a result of the coffee beans’ prolonged contact with the original fruit.
Flavour characteristics: Big body with lots of fruiy and floral notes like strawberry, apricot, peach and other intense berry flavours. The best natural processed coffees are clean with distinctive fruity flavours and lots of character.
Honey Processed – ‘Middle’ Method
It’s essentially a middle ground between the dry and wet processing methods.
Using the honey process, a producer de-pulps the cherry right after harvest similar to the washed process, however like the natural process, honey process skips the fermentation tanks and leaves any clinging mucilage to dry with the seed.
When done right, honey processed coffee can literally taste like someone has put honey and brown sugar in your cup of coffee -although the name actually comes from how sticky the beans get during processing. In many ways, this type of coffee is halfway between a washed coffee and a natural process coffee: it’s fruity, but not in as exaggerated a way as some naturals. It often has a more rounded acidity than washed coffees, with intense sweetness and complex mouthfeel.
The honey process is strongly associated with Costa Rica and, in recent years, subcategories have developed: yellow, red, golden, black, and white honey. This reflects the ability this process has to influence the taste and overall profile of a coffee. It can become a highly scientific process, as the level of mucilage – which influences the sweetness and depth of body of the coffee – is monitored and controlled. Typically, the more mucilage left on the bean, the sweeter the taste.
For those somewhere in-between the two camps -maybe someone not so excited about the lemon tartness of a washed coffee or the robust blueberry acidity of a good natural- Honey Process or Pulped Natural is the answer.
Flavour characteristics: Great balance between the bright flavours of a washed coffee & the fruity character of a natural. The best honey processed ones are clean, bright & juicy with lots of fruit & body.
>> 50 Shades of Honey
Now let’s break down the different types of honey processing. The following information has been shared by one of our dear partners in origin, Finca Las Lajas in Costa Rica.
White Honey:
80-90% of the mucilage is removed. The beans are dried on raised beds in direct sun
Yellow Honey:
50% of the mucilage is removed. The beans are dried in low wind and medium sunlight conditions. When drying, they are raked 3 to 4 times a day for a total drying of 1 week.
Red Honey:
80-90% of the mucilage remains on the beans. The beans are dried on raised beds in shaded conditions. When drying they are raked on the first morning and then only once or twice in the afternoon.
Black honey:
Left with 100% of its fruit on the bean. The beans are dried on raised beds in complete shaded conditions.
As a conclusion we can say that the percentage of remaining mucilage will explain mainly the difference between a white and yellow honey. And that the amount of light & drying time will differentiate the most between a red and a black honey.
Black honey coffees are more risky to produce and require constant monitoring to avoid over-fermentation and mold developing.
In cup black honey processed generally offers a coffee with a full body that match perfectly for espresso. White and yellow processed coffees, in contrast, tend to have a cleaner taste when prepared as a filter coffee.