THE SPECIALTY COFFEE PARADOX
WHY FINE DINING HASN’T FULLY EMBRACED IT YET ?

Fine dining leaves no detail to chance. Ingredients are meticulously sourced, wine pairings are carefully curated, and even water menus -featuring selections based on minerality and origin, are becoming standard in top-tier restaurants. Yet, coffee -a beverage rich in terroir and craftsmanship, is often overlooked.

Why do the world’s best restaurants invest in the perfect wine list and offer premium water choices, yet often serve an average espresso at the end of an otherwise extraordinary meal? Why hasn’t specialty coffee with its complexity, origin-driven focus, and artisanal approach, earned the same respect?
To explore this paradox, we spoke with 2 experts who have made specialty coffee an integral part of haute cuisine, each from a different perspective. Michelin-starred Chef Indra Carrillo Perea of ‘La Condesa’ in Paris shares how he integrates specialty coffee into the fine dining experience, both as a post-meal ritual and as a culinary ingredient. Meanwhile, Veda Viraswami, Head Roaster at ‘La Manufacture du Café Alain Ducasse’, explains the barriers that specialty coffee faces in high-end restaurants and the steps needed to elevate its status to that of wine.

EXPERTS BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN SPECIALTY COFFEE & HAUTE CUISINE

Indra Carrillo Perea – A Visionary Chef with a Global Perspective

With a career spanning 9 countries and training in some of the world’s most renowned restaurants, Indra Carrillo Perea is no stranger to excellence. A graduate of the Paul Bocuse Institute, he has honed his skills in prestigious French establishments such as Paul Bocuse (Collonges), Le Meurice, L’Épicure at Le Bristol, and L’Astrance. His culinary journey extends far beyond France, with experience in Italy, the UK, Japan, Mexico, India, and the US, including time at Noma (Copenhagen), Ginza Kojyu (Tokyo), and Kikunoi Honten (Kyoto).

In 2017, he opened La Condesa in Paris, earning a Michelin star from 2019 to 2023. His cuisine, deeply rooted in French tradition, is enriched by global influences, blending precision with creativity. Yet, despite his expertise in fine dining, coffee was not a major part of his formal training -an oversight common in the industry. However, at La Condesa, he made the conscious choice to serve specialty coffee from Coutume Café, demonstrating his commitment to quality at every stage of the dining experience. ‘Specialty coffees are the coffees that encourage the discovery of new flavours and aromas’, he explains -a philosophy that mirrors his approach to cuisine itself.

Veda Viraswami – A Roaster Redefining Coffee in Haute Cuisine

At ‘La Manufacture du Café Alain Ducasse’, Veda Viraswami isn’t just roasting coffee -he’s reshaping how it’s perceived in haute cuisine. As a 3rd-place finisher at the World Coffee Roasting Championship (2018) and the head roaster for one of the most prestigious culinary names in the world, he has a unique vantage point on the intersection of specialty coffee and fine dining.

With a meticulous approach, Veda believes that every roast should tell a story, balancing tradition with innovation. His philosophy is clear: ‘Believe in your vision, bring your DNA to your approach to coffee, and don’t neglect the time needed for change’. This commitment to craftsmanship ensures that every cup served at La Manufacture de Café reflects the same dedication to excellence that defines Alain Ducasse’s culinary legacy.

BREAKING BARRIERS : A DIALOGUE ON SPECIALTY COFFEE IN HAUTE CUISINE

Through their different perspectives, Indra Carrillo and Veda Viraswami highlight the challenges and opportunities in bringing specialty coffee into fine dining.

Chefs’ Perception of Specialty Coffee

At La Condesa, Indra Carrillo sees specialty coffee as an extension of the culinary journey -an opportunity to discover new flavours, terroirs, and forgotten varieties. He values passionate producers, high-quality terroirs, and sustainability, but acknowledges that customers are sometimes surprised by the acidity and complexity of these coffees. However, he finds that guests are increasingly receptive when given the right context.

At Ducasse, Veda Viraswami observes that chefs’ reluctance toward specialty coffee often stems from unfamiliarity. Many are taken aback when they first experience its acidity or nuanced flavour profiles. The challenge is raising awareness about coffee’s potential, much like how wine appreciation developed over time. Choosing quality coffee is the first step -everything else follows with education and experience.

The Challenges of Specialty Coffee in Fine Dining

For Ducasse, a major challenge is that chefs seek precision and consistency, while coffee requires constant adaptation. The extraction process is complex and sensitive, requiring a deep understanding that many chefs don’t have the time to develop.

At La Condesa, Indra Carrillo agrees, adding that expanding a coffee selection can be logistically difficult -different beans require different grind settings, storage conditions, and equipment adjustments. Additionally, preservation remains a challenge, making it harder to offer variety without compromise.

Coffee as a Creative Ingredient in the Kitchen

At Ducasse, coffee is no longer limited to the final cup at the end of the meal. It is increasingly used in pastries, ice creams, and even savory dishes, opening up endless possibilities.

At La Condesa, Indra Carrillo incorporates coffee into his dishes in innovative ways. He emphasises that in a Michelin-starred restaurant, every detail matters, and coffee should align with the rest of the meal’s excellence. He experiments with different varieties and extraction methods, sometimes reusing coffee grounds to reduce waste. ‘For example, we made a crust with coffee grounds to cook Jerusalem artichokes, concentrating all their flavours. We also served them with a sabayon infused with coffee beans. It’s not unusual for coffee to inspire new creations.’

The Essential Role of Roasters in Supporting Chefs

At La Condesa, training has been crucial. Indra Carrillo’s team has learned from Coutume Café, refining their techniques to ensure every cup meets their standards. He prefers to blind taste coffees before selecting them, ensuring objectivity and a focus on experience. Today, he works with an organic Colombian coffee -Sol Naciente, from the Sierra Nevada region, selected for its complex floral notes.

For Ducasse, customer adaptation is key. Many Michelin-starred restaurant guests are unfamiliar with specialty coffee’s characteristics, but people can develop a taste for quality. The key is educating both staff and diners. Roasters must support chefs through training, machine calibration, and tasting sessions, fostering a collaborative approach.